Circumnavigating Anglesey

Aug Bank Holiday weekend 2015

August Bank holiday was the last opportunity for a long weekend away this season so Moody 35, Pinch of Thyme joined Graham and I aboard Nomad, our Moody S31 for a trip around Anglesey, along with the crews of Twilight, Stryker and Lady Jules. We set off at 11am, High Tide on Saturday morning with a forecast of F4/5. It was a bumpy trip with a steady 25kn of wind across Conwy bay with gusts up to 31kn across Red Wharf Bay. We put in a reef in both main and Genoa while still in the channel and added a second reef in the Genoa off the cost of Moelfre. Nomad was now well balanced and was going well at 9.8kn SOG at one stage, having the tide with us all the way. She was still pointing well up-wind as we rounded Port Lynas but eventually we added some engine to give us another 10⁰ to windward so that we could make the inland passage at Middle Mouse and avoid putting in a tack.

                                                Storm clouds in the Straits

                                               

We passed Porth Wen and the brickworks where three or four yachts had gone to seek shelter but we pushed on around the corner to Cemaes Bay. We were heading for the Westward corner under the power station near Lamb Island where there is good shelter from the headland cliff and the holding is good, as was evident when we pulled up anchors the next morning. It is important to enter Cemaes Bay from the centre of the bay which is then divided into three distinct parts because a sand bank extends across the bay on the eastern side, running across its entrance. Once you are half way across the bay, you can make your way towards the shore in the middle before heading for your chosen spot.

Lamb Island was particularly sheltered in these very strong SW winds especially when we tucked ourselves under the cliff, but staying clear of the fishing buoys.  We went ashore on Twilight's 'taxi service' for some much needed food and drink and enjoyed swapping sailing stories and passage planning for the following day. As promised, the wind died with the sunset and from the shore the boats sat still and quiet. However there was just enough of a swell to keep most people awake during the night.

Going ashore in Cemaes Bay

                                                                    

 Stryker at sunset

  

We began Sunday morning watching dolphins in the bay. At  least four large dolphins swan in circles, one of which jumped and splashed before us. Wow! The day's plan which was formed the previous evening, was to motor around Carmel Head and the Stacks on route to Pilot's Cove. However, three of our five boat flotilla decided to head back in the other direction to spend the evening in the Straits having had little sleep and with the prospect of the possible overfalls to come. So we bid them farewell as they set off with the last of the tide while ourselves and Pinch of Thyme set off at 0845 pushing the tide towards Carmel Head.

We passed the Harry Furlong buoy at 0915 where we saw a porpoise or two in the tidal waters. It was slow going and when we reached the tidal race off Carmel Head, Nomad slowed from 5.9kn to 1.7k. It felt like we had stopped dead! It took ages to round the head at this speed even though the engine was on 2800 Revs. Still, once around the corner we headed into Holyhead bay to pick up a back eddy Graham knew about which gave us a lift while looking out for ferries crossing from Ireland and the Isle of Man. We had passed the end of the harbour wall when an Irish ferry grew rapidly on our Starboard side, like Alice in Wonderland after taking the growing potion. Unfortunately, Pinch of Thyme were still crossing the bay and were not confident they could cross in front of the ferry and so made evasive maneuvers. putting an extra mile onto their journey.

The sea conditions were still very calm so the overfalls below North Stack were minimal, just some choppy waters which we splashed through for a few minutes. I was lucky enough to see a dolphin's fin in the waves and then, clearly I saw a common dolphin with its creamy yellow belly swim towards me on the starboard side but he was quickly lost again in all the soup.  There were no more rough waters to endure, just some swirling and bubbling below the majestic lighthouse of South Stack before we turned south down the west coast of Anglesey.

The weather was dull and cloudy but surprisingly warm. We hadn't yet worn a coat and the warmth remained as enough of a breeze blew up to allow us to put out the Genoa and turn off the engine for a while. Aboard Pinch of Thyme, the crew were ambitious enough to put up their beautiful blue cruising chute. It took them quite a while, no doubt due to lack of practice which was the reason we didn't put up our own, and in doing so they lost a lot of ground. However, once up they came steaming along (at about 2.5kn) to eventually overtake us as the white spot of Llanddwyn Island lighthouse came into sight.

Before going around the Llanddwyn headland we investigated a possible anchorage near Malltraeth beach. A green buoy marks a wreck at 2m, Chart datum, with an anchorage between it and the shore, between two small headlands. This could be a possible safe haven against north westerly winds if Pilot's Cove is too crowded. On approach to the cove we spotted a couple of seals basking in the warm hazy sun on the rocks. We were rather angry, but sadly not surprised, when a jet skier and speed boat roared up towards them for a dangerously close look. Why is it that speed merchants often lack common sense and respect for wildlife?

The cove was quite busy but we were able to anchor close to the rocks to the east of the cove where there was a good view of the beach and the vast stretch of sand that sweeps from the so called island, all the way to Aber Menai and the narrows. We relaxed and enjoyed a meal aboard before we were kindly ferried ashore to meet up with family that had walked that long stretch of sand to meet us. It was lovely to be ashore at the end of the day when most of the day trippers were heading home. The cove becomes quiet and peaceful before the spectacular sunset starts. I have often taken photographs from this spot aboard Nomad, but tonight's sunset was as beautiful as ever. As the sun dipped below the clouds which had hung in the air all day, it lit up the steep countryside that leads up to the mountains on the mainland. For the first time today the land was clear and bright. Piercing lights were dotted along the hillsides, reflecting the sun light in the many farm house and cottage windows that spread out across the hills. I smiled when I noticed that all the crews were on their decks with cameras in hand. It was a lovely way to end the day.  

Bank holiday Monday began with

an equally gorgeous sunrise bathing

the boats and the shore in a lovely

lemon glow as it shone under the

cloud base. We left the anchorage

at 0900, well rested after a very

peaceful night, bidding good

morning to other crews who were

fishing for their breakfast. We put

out our own fishing line hoping for

a bite as we crossed the shallow

waters of the bar having had no

luck fishing the previous afternoon.

The water speed was only 2.5kn but

as we entered the narrows at 1000 we were making 10kn SOG. Normally we would be leaving Pilot's Cove earlier on the tide to make the Swellies at slack water so it was unusual for us to be traveling this late and we were expecting slacker water. However, this weekend was predicting particularly High  and Low tides (for some celestial reasons beyond me) and so we were still 'skating' on the water's surface through whirlpools and boiling bubbles. Looking back at Pinch of Thyme who were following, we could see how the tide takes the vessels sideways as we were 'ferry gliding' from one buoy to the next. Passing Caernarfon we took in the view, glad that this had not been our final destination this weekend but that we had been able to go all the way around Anglesey. We have spent much of our summer in Caernarfon, waiting for better weather so we could move on. The sun was now hiding above the clouds as we set off up the Straits towards Port Dinowrick or Y Felinheli as it is now known. We kept the marker buoys for Traeth Gwyllt on our Port (meaning wild  sands) but didn't bother to go around the buoys marking the next bank which shows 1.7m at chart datum. Instead we aimed for the dinghies moored at Plas Menai. It was HT after all and the lowest depth we found was 4.7m.

At Cable Bay, West of Y Felinheli lies a trot of ten large buoys nestled in a narrow bay against the trees. We took no.7 with Pinch of Thyme taking the one behind. At only a boat length apart it made communication easier between us. A stiff breeze had blown up against us during our trip here with an Autumnal feel but in the cockpit with the protection of the spray hood we enjoyed a lovely  warm and sunny afternoon. It was a bank holiday after all!

We had arranged to go ashore at 1700 to meet and eat with friends at the local pub but as we awaited our lift from Pinch of Thyme I thought I could see a sandy bottom beneath the swim ladder. It looked as though I could jump in with water up to my thighs. Graham tried to move the tiller to fasten it in place while we were away but the keel was stuck fast. That was the bottom I could see! The depth gauge measured only 1.5m and the keel is 1.7m. Ooops! There was an hour to go before low water and the tide had another 0.9m to drop. The big concern was not the keel but pressure on the rudder. Graham turned on the engine, and with me bouncing on the bow, we managed to motor forwards and free us from the sand. There was 4.7m at the buoy so as long as we could stay in the flow of the river  then there would be plenty of water. With help from S & M in the tender, we set up a line from our stern to the no.8 buoy behind us and added three fenders along the line in case anyone tried to go between us. The only other concern was that Pinch of Thyme might turn with the tide and our sterns may touch so we also set up fenders on both our sterns before alighting Nomad and setting out for the pub.

We had a lovely evening with Arrow's crew from Conwy and set off back to the moorings in the fading light. It was now perfectly still and the reflection of the sunset sky rippled in the waves of a passing boat. Pinch of Thyme was now pointing into the tide towards Caernarfon while Nomad was held tight in the opposite direction with the line set up earlier. We weren't quite touching but there was only the tender's  width between us! The line was very tight and Graham was worried that it may snap or cause some other damage so we decided to release the line - but that was easier said than done! In hindsight (a wonderful thing!) we could have tied the two sterns together while we loosened the line and collected it in. However,  what actually happened was that as Graham tried to loosen the line, Nomad began to turn as far as she could into the tide until the line stopped her again. By now the light was all but gone and things were getting a bit fraught. We solved the problem eventually by using the engine to reverse Nomad, slackening the line and letting it go, but that was not as easy as it sounds! S & M then collected it up in their tender. With gratitude we took the line back on board and bid them goodnight. But that wasn't the end of the story ...

There was the issue of the problem reoccurring at low tide the following morning at 0700. Our solution was to set the alarm for 0545 when the tide would be at the same stage as when we went aground the previous evening. We could then use the engine if necessary to keep us afloat in the right direction. As it happened there was no need. When we awoke to the alarm our stern was pointing out into the river, the tide was slack and it was perfectly still. We checked every 15 min or so until we finally got up around 0730. Disaster averted!

At 1030 we left the mooring for our trip home through the Swellies and across the Swatch. We were 45 minutes early for slack water at the Swellies, but usually, provided you are with the tide this is not a problem. You just need enough engine power to be able to steer in the fast waters around the rocks which is why the power boats can travel at almost any state of the tide. With such highs and lows this weekend though, the tide was as fast as we'd ever seen it and we got through the Swellies from one bridge to the other in just under seven minutes! At the bridges, the water stepped down around the columns and thundered past the cardinal marking Swellies rock. Very exciting! 

The rest of the trip was uneventful. We motored towards Beaumaris while being followed by creeping rain clouds which eventually caught up with us off the coast of Dwygyfylchi before dissipating once again. We finally berthed in Conwy marina around 1400 and spent the afternoon cleaning up the debris from anchoring and mooring offshore for several days. The weekend had cost us nothing other than a pub meal, but we found friendship, excitement and satisfaction having circumnavigated Anglesey this Bank holiday weekend! 

 Crews from the weekend's flotilla.